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Road Conditions – Last updated: 06-01-2012

The road to Big Chief is now open.

         Road Opened     Road closed
2012 mid-May
2011 mid-June November
2010 mid-June 11-22
2009 05-22 November
2008 06-01 12-14
2007 May 12-06
2006 06-17 November
2005 06-15 11-28
Route Updates – Last updated: 11-29-2010

Big Chief

Flame Thrower,10d**** - 17 bolts. Some of the bolts are so close together they are easy to skip. Hence, the miscount in the guidebook.

NEW ROUTES

no name yet, suggested grade 12b – 6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Crux is clipping the last 2 or 3 bolts.
Location: The Three Towers - Left Wall, Pg 57, left of Eye of the Beholder
12b: 1 vote
Quality rating: **
FA: Ross, 8/30/2010

Tomahawk, suggested grade 10c – 3 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Crux is clipping the 3rd bolt.
Location: North Pass Pillar, Pg 55, Letter O(Open Project)
10c: 3 votes
Quality rating: **
FA: Tony Bozzio, Nick Bozzio, 7/30/2008

Wildfire, suggested grade 11a/b - 8 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Stick clip first bolt. The route starts to the left of the first bolt(which is above the roof). Climb 2 bolts then join Smoke Signal at third bolt. The crux is pulling over the roof at first bolt. (Quick links and BD ovals)
Location: South Wall, Pg 71, First route to the left of Drill Drop
11c: 2 votes
11a: 3 votes
Quality rating: ***
FA: Tony Bozzio, Nick Bozzio, 7/28/2008.

Smoke Signal, suggested grade 10d - 8 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Stick clip first bolt. The route starts to the left of the first bolt. The crux is immediately after clipping the first bolt. Getting up to the first bolt seems improbable but it's all there as long as a scarry looking flake underneath the roof remains. (Quick links and BD ovals)
Location: South Wall, Pg 71, Second route to the left of Drill Drop
11a: 2 votes
10d: 5 votes
Quality rating: ***
FA: Tony Bozzio, Nick Bozzio, 7/27/2008.

Rolling Thunder, suggested grade 11c/d - 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. The route starts to the left of the first bolt - follow the chalk. Crux appears to be between second and third bolt. Stick clipping the first bolt is a good idea as the footholds are slick.
Location: Between North Pass Pillar and the Oven, on the right in a small cave just as you walk on the trail to The Oven
11d: 2 votes
11c: 2 votes
Quality rating: * or **
FA: Tony Bozzio, Matt Gelso, August 2008.

Sawtooth Ridge

I spent a lot of time at Sawtooth Ridge summer/2005 checking out the routes. I got on everything at least three times and dragged several of my unsuspecting friends on the climbs as well. Below are the statistical results for the quality and difficulty ratings.

Skimmy,10b***
Jimmy,8***
Hunchy Bunchy Banana Pants,7**
Pollo Del Fuego,9***
Lord Braggart,11c***
Weezitation(previously a project immediately right of Lord Braggart),11d**
Rumsfeld’s Revenge,11c****
Axis of Evil,11b****
Threat Level Orange,10c***
Exit Strategy,11c**
Pre-emptive Strike,10c****
R.P.G.,11b**
Spider Hole,12b***
Shock & Awe,10c****
Sixteen Virgins,10d***
Weapons of Mass Destruction,11d*

Remote Outpost

This is a lone crag at the far right(south) end of Sawtooth Ridge. It is separated from the main Sawtooth Ridge formation by a gully. It is located approximately 500 feet right of the approach trail.
Two bolted climbs are located at this crag. They are listed here from left to right.

Unknown,9****
A large slab of rock leans against the wall at the base of the route. This intimidating looking line offers steep climbing on positive holds. After a balancy crux at the second bolt, pass left of the roof. The upper portion of the climb finishes on a unique upward slanted thin ledge.

Roof-Roof,10a**
This climb is located at the right(southern) most end of the formation. A left leaning undercling crack leads to a double roof system. Above the roofs the climb continues on a slabby face.

 

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